21 August 2011

Quick...name an ancient city larger than Rome...

Friday night we were invited to a birthday party for one of Ken's classmates. We mentioned that we were heading to the Teotihuacan pyramids, about an hour's bus ride north of D.F., the next day. So, this being Mexico, the hosts had a German guy who was the friend of the wife's sister staying there and the sister, his friend, had promised to take him, but now she couldn't so could we? Sure we could. The friend was named Felix and was a mathematician from Dresden, visiting Mexico for the first time.

When we arrived at the pyramids, we decided to hire a guide. The very first one we met said he spoke both English and German...and he had no idea those were the languages we spoke! Of course, Felix spoke perfect English, so that was the language our guide used. Our guide's name was Tonatiui, and he worked with his dad and brother as part of Gorila's Tours. "Gorila" is the nickname of his dad, who has been working at the Pyramids since he was a boy of seven.
Here are Felix and Tonatiuh at the beginning of our day together.
Ken and Felix did the climbing...I was having a clumsy day, so enjoyed the views from the valley floor!

We learned that Teotihuacan was larger in both size and population than Rome at the same time period. It seems to me that every U.S. citizen who can afford it has traveled to see the Coliseum and the Roman Forum...but how many of us even knew that our neighboring country held a treasure like this?



Living in Mexico, I find myself thinking back to my school days...what did we learn about Mexico? My recollection is: nothing. We learned about U.S. history, and New York State. We learned about the Acropolis in Athens, the Coliseum in Rome, the Eiffel Tower, the Tower of London, and of course the pyramids in Eqypt. But about the astounding ancient sites in Mexico? Nothing. And so, I never realized that Mexico was important historically, culturally, artistically, or in any other way. And I fear that even now U.S. schoolchildren are being taught the same way.

In Teotihuacan, we were introduced to a world built on mathemetical principles...every single stairway, building, step and stone was placed for a reason. The seasons, the days, the equinox, the stars...the buildings and all of their parts were perfectly aligned to make sense of the world. This was an important place, so impressive that the Aztecs believed that the gods had created the universe here.






This is the fifth such site Ken and I have visited in Mexico...and before we came here, we couldn't have named one of them. Each has been awesome...not in the "hey dude, that's awesome" way, but in the real sense of the word. I am awed at the size of the pyramids, the beauty of the carvings, the perfection the builders achieved so long ago, and most awesome of all, the fact that these sites still exist! At Teotihuacan, archeologists are working every day to discover more.

And, this being Mexico, after our tour we were invited to our guide's home for some mezcal. Mr. Gorila drove us to their home in the car he calls "the red Mercedes".

As we bumped over dirt roads, and Gorila honked, hollered and waved at everyone, Felix frantically searched for his seatbelt. "Don't worry," Gorila said, "you're in my town!" "I might be in your town," said Felix, "but I am still a German."

One of Gorilla's sons drove us to the bus station in the real tour car the group uses...a beautiful, air-conditioned SUV. (www.gorilatours.com)

When I took Felix's photo on top of one of the pyramids, he told me he was embarrassed by his camera. He had brought an older one with him, he told me, because so many friends had warned him that his good camera would be stolen in Mexico. "Now, after just a few days here," he said, "I am ashamed that I believed these things about Mexico. The people here are wonderful."

Like so many others, Felix had heard nothing good about Mexico...like so many others, Felix was amazed at just how good this country and its people are.

If you come to Mexico City, I urge you to spend a day in the awesome, inspiring and mysterious place called Teotihuacan. And to make sure to get a ride in the red Mercedes.











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