Home away from home...

When we knew we would be living in Mexico City for a while, Ken came down with a friend to find us a place to live.  Mexico City is, by most accounts, the third largest city in the world, and has about a million more residents than New York City.  Mexico City also covers an enormous amount of space.  When you fly in for the first time, the city below seems to go on  forever.  This city is not just old....it's ancient, and one civilization simply built atop the other.  Just as in New York City, there are many neighborhoods (here, we call them colonias) that are extremely different from one another.

Centro Historico, where the huge square (zocolo) and the main cathedral and government buildings are, is crowded, but filled with some of the most beautiful buildings I have ever seen.  Polanco is upscale; that is where you can buy an Hermes bag or a Chanel jacket as you venture from your suite at the Intercontinental or "W" hotel.   San Angel is a neighborhood of charming homes, cobblestone streets, and art galleries.  Santa Fe reminds me of Tuscon.  The Zona Rosa used to be cool, but is now kind of seedy.  Condesa used to be really cool, but now the place to be is Roma, which looks and feels like many cities in Europe.  Xochimilco is an amazing neighborhood filled with canals, where boats decorated with floral canopies take people for rides on leisurely Sunday afternoons.  But Ken, luckily, chose Coyoacan.

Thanks to the amazing film made by Salma Hayak, "Frida", many people worldwide now know about the neighborhood where Frida Kahlo spent much of her life.  Coyoacan has one of the most beautiful and lively main squares I have ever seen in Mexico.  Anchored, of course, by a huge church, the square here is really a series of three or so.  There is an unusual fountain, green shrubs cut in a design, wrought iron benches, and all you might need in terms of food and music!  Coyoacan has its own mercado, where you can buy fresh fruits, vegetables, meat and fish or enjoy a declicious Mexican breakfast, lunch or dinner.  There are also modern food markets, an upscale mall, and plenty of museums, including the Frida Kahlo house, just five blocks from where we live.  Coyoacan has theatre, films, cultural centers, gyms, restaurants galore, and any service you might need.  However, what Coyoacan also has is a sense of community.  On Sunday afternoons, in one of the many parks, older couples dance to son music.  Artists display their paintings for sale.  Balloon sellers and organ grinders and countless street musicians bring a bit of cheer for just a few pesos.  There are at least three artisan markets every weekend.

The casita Ken found is perfect for us.  Like all houses in this neighborhood, it sits behind a thick wall, and a locked gate.  Our landlady's home is in front of the three casitas she owns.  Each casita is unique in style and design.  They share a path lined with tropical plants and flowers.  Our house is made of white brick and cement.  It is three stores tall.  On the ground floor is the living room and kitchen.  Twenty steps up a wrought iron spiral staircase is our bedroom and bathroom.  More steps lead to the rooftop patio, from which you can see some of the mountains that surround Mexico City.

  Ken and I make it a point to stroll in the main square every Sunday evening. It feels as if every family  from Coyocan is in the square, too...grandparents, moms, dads, teens in love, children running and playing, and babies...always held in someone's arms.  The people  buy ice cream cones, balloons, tortas,  fresh fruit drinks, tacos, and wonderful Mexican coffee.  There is the sound of laughter as people meet up with their families and friends. 

Then I think about Sunday night in upstate New York.  Most families are home, in front of their own TV's or personal computers.  Sadly, many people are dreading the upcoming Monday morning and the return to work.  Obviously, people in cold climates can't stroll around their cities in the winter months.  But somehow, I think that even if it snowed in Mexico City, the people here in Coyoacan would find a way to get together, have something delicious to eat, and make Sunday night one of the best times of the week.